North Sikkim Day 1: Gangtok to Lachen.

Much like all of our previous travels across India, we had no idea really what was going to happen over the next 4 days. North Sikkim is a pretty remote place. It’s not a hugely popular tourist destination for westerners, probably because it’s out of the way and not that easy to get to. As we mentioned in our last post, tourists aren't allowed to make their own way around the area, so the only way to explore is to book onto an organised tour with a driver and guide. There are also certain areas of North Sikkim that foreigners simply aren't allowed to visit.  Anywhere too close to the Chinese border was strictly off limits.  This meant that we were not allowed to go to the famously beautiful Gurudongmar Lake.Organised tours are not always that accessible to shoestring travellers, but teaming up with Steve and Sarah meant that we were able to get a sweet deal.Spoiler alert:  We ended up travelling with these babes for a month because we love them so much.Luckily for us Steve and Sarah had not only done all the research the day before we were introduced to them but they were looking to do exactly the same kind of tour as us. MG Marg, which is the main strip in the town centre has plenty of travel agencies all offering the same sorts of packages.  We couldn't really say whether one company is better than another.  With these kinds of things, you have to go with your gut, or just go with the friendliest face and the best price. We got a driver, a guide, all fuel, a jeep, accommodation for 3 nights plus breakfast, lunch and dinner for the grand total of £360 or £60 per day, per couple. For a 3 day jaunt, that's a reasonable amount to spend.The only prep we had to do was to get some photocopies of our passports and some new photos for the permits. Every now and then we’d need to stop off at various check points and offer up IDs.We left Gangtok around 9am and arrived in Lachen at about 6pm. A long drive with great company takes no time at all. We would recommend taking a mini jack lead so you can plug music in.  We have found that those drivers who already have them tend to have to worst ones available to buy.The views along the way were unbelievable. Amazing bridges, bumpy roads and our driver was not shy about putting his foot on the gas. Before we reached Lachen, which is where we would rest our bodies for the evening, we got to stop off at some truly enchanting places. No idea where this is but the scenery was lush. We then carried on to Chumthang. Pretty cool name for a place huh? Along the way, we stopped for tea and a quick re-fuel. This chai stop was partocularly lovely.  This little bubba was so happy to meet us. Not so smiley in this picture, but composition-wise, boom.Not only did this place look wondeful, it was so awesome to see the locals sat in the back of the “shop” smoking, drinking and playing cards. Fortunately we arrived at our hotel before night took the light away. Had we arrived later, we might not have noticed this amazing artwork on the side of the wall.Close up!We had been told that such phallic artwork was popular in Bhutan, but didn't expect to see it in North India.  Apparently these symbolic paintings are linked to a particular monastery which was built to honour Lama Drukpa Kunley, also known as "Mad Saint", who's teachings were apparently fairly unorthodox in their execution.  Despite these links to Buddhism, it's understood that Phallic symbolism was a strong part of early ethnic religion that was taught even before Buddhism became the state religion of Bhutan.  So now you know.Lachen felt like a slow town. Very far from home and from any life we've known before. It was quiet, tranquil and bloody cold. The hotel was ok, despite being really damp. It was perfect for the budget and appropriately and charmingly uncomfortable.  They served us hot tea, so that made everything ok.  Once we'd exchanged our pillows for a pair that weren't literally covered in hair, we were cool.We headed up to the roof to see the view. Unfortunately opposite our room there was a new hotel being built so all we had was a construction site opposite.No worries though, we were really only there to sleep and the roof top gave us this nice picture. After the sun went down, we went for a little walk. We both love India so much.  The people, the scenery, the smells, the colours, the noises, the food and the fact that a little bit of cheekiness is usually quite well received. This often results in us being invited into peoples homes and being given an authentic insight into real local life.A house on the hill was emitting an eery and invited reddish light...It was almost pitch black outside and very cold. We climbed some stairs leading toward the house from the road and started saying “hello” at a moderate volume.  A young lad come out to see what the noise was. He was a little surprised to see us, but before we knew it, we had been invited in for tea.All of a sudden it seemed we’d gone from a lonely, pitch black, cold road to a warm and comfy kitchen, full of neatly arranged jars, pots and other receptacles. It was a fascinating and cosy place to be. The young boy who invited us in was called Kunga. He was a very kind and intelligent guy, who chatted with us for a while about the area, village life, his education and the forthcoming yak racing. His beautiful mother made us all drinks.It’s so nice to be so far away from home but to feel so welcomed by complete strangers.Kunga walked us back to our hotel with his brother and offered us their umbrellas.Dinner was a tasty array of vegetable dishes.  As usual, being vegan wasn't an issue.One last adventure before bed. The local pub.This place was a real gem. A stone's throw from our hotel and smaller than your average UK bathroom. A fireplace took centre stage and we all crammed round it to keep warm. We joined in with the locals and answered any curious questions they had. We also partook in some tongba with them.  Tongba is a home-made beer, made from fermented millet.  You get a big bamboo cup filled with the grain, over which you pour boiling water.  After a little while you can take a slurp and allow it to warm your cockles.  The idea is to keep topping it up with hot water, letting it get stronger with each refill.For us, this evening was very special.  Lovely people, lovely atmosphere and memories that’ll last a lifetime.